Jewelry repair: understanding a precise process
Restoring a piece of jewelry sometimes seems like a simple procedure. Resetting a stone, reducing the size of a ring, repairing a setting edge. In practice, this work is rarely straightforward. Behind every repair is a technical process in which knowledge, understanding of materials and careful handling are essential.
Small diamonds, worn settings
An example: two gold rings with pavé set diamonds, of which some of the stones have been lost. In such cases, it is not enough just to place a new stone. The cause is often the worn greins, the "feet" of the metal that hold the stone in place.
Therefore, the first step is to repair the setting. This is done with a very thin white gold wire, which is used to thicken the legs. This process is performed under the microscope, using a laser welder for maximum precision and minimal heat input to the rest of the ring. Only then can the missing stones be reinserted.
Alliancing reduction: influence on tension and settlements
Another common repair involves the reduction of a gold alliance ring, in this case in rail setting. This not only changes the diameter of the ring, but also the stress distribution in the metal. This directly affects the setting of the stones: there is a real risk of stones becoming loose or breaking.
Depending on the type of gemstones and ring construction, it may be necessary to take out all the stones first. This is because some stones cannot withstand the heating required in soldering. Again, experience is important: knowing when which precautions are needed.
Repair of a treasured heirloom
Older rings often involve an extra layer of complexity. An example is an alliance ring with a missing aquamarine. The ring was old, the other stones worn. Yet the desire was to preserve as much of the original as possible. In this case, a new stone is sought and modified, optically and in terms of cut quality, to match the existing ensemble.
New setting edge for a signet ring
On an old signet ring with a carnelian, the setting rim was worn to the point that the stone was loose. The solution was to carefully remove the stone, saw off the damaged edge, and apply a new setting edge in thicker gold. The stone was then polished and re-set, with custom setting samples.
Restoration of silverware: old craftsmanship, new techniques
A goldsmith is not limited to repairing jewelry. Silverware, from table silver to church objects, can also be restored. For example, I recently got my hands on an antique brush where the silver-plated rim had come loose. Because the object was silver-plated and had animal bristles, soldering was not an option: the heat would affect the patina and damage the bristles. In such cases, an unorthodox approach is needed. Through a combination of ancient craft knowledge and modern techniques, a durable solution can be found without compromising the historic value of the object. This too is part of the careful and respectful restoration of heritage.
Jewelry repair requires technical knowledge
Repairing a piece of jewelry requires more than manual dexterity. Every part of the process - from analysis to execution - requires technical knowledge, an eye for material behavior and precise working methods. Whether it's a simple stone setting or a full restoration, care is paramount.
Cost and pre-assessment
The cost of a repair or restoration always depends on several factors, such as the material, the complexity of the work and the number of labor hours required. Therefore, it is necessary that I first evaluate the piece of jewelry or silver piece myself. Only after this inspection can I provide a specific quotation. If you hand over the piece to me, you will know in advance exactly what the work will cost. This way you avoid surprises and you can decide on the next steps with peace of mind.
