The art of diamond setting: craft to the smallest detail
A piece of jewelry is more than a beautiful design. The real magic happens when technique and feeling come together down to the smallest millimeters. As a goldsmith and diamond setter, I design, manufacture and set each piece of jewelry myself. That is special, because setting diamonds is a profession in itself, with its own techniques, tools and a lot of precision work.
Whether it is a single stone or an entire pavé setting, a good setting allows the diamond to come to life and ensures strength and comfort.
Pavé and micropavé: a tapestry of sparkle
In a pavé setting, tiny diamonds are placed close together, as if the surface is paved with light. I set them with tiny greens: balls of metal that are barely visible but hold the stones firmly in place.
Micropavé requires even more concentration. Here I work with pebbles under the millimeter, under the microscope. The effect is refined and elegant, perfect for borders or accents in larger designs.
Chaton settlements: the classic basis with variation
The chaton setting is a classic technique: a diamond is secured with legs (prongs) that let in the best possible light. I apply this technique in a variety of styles, always tailored to the shape and size of the stone.
Two variants frequently used by me:
Castle Settlement
A structured and contemporary variation of the chaton. The cutouts for the stones resemble small battlements, with straight greens rising from the plane. This setting gives a robust, clean look while still allowing plenty of light to shine through. Ideal for a modern look with craftsmanship as a quiet base.
Fishtailing
An ornate design where the griffins are protruded on the side in a V-shape, like a fish tail. This gives the jewelry a classic, sophisticated look. I often use this technique with very small stones, where the metal optically disappears as much as possible so that the diamond gets all the attention. This technique is not common anymore because it is so labor intensive. But a ring set with this technique makes a visible difference!
Smooth, rail or incustration: functional and sleek
A smooth inset diamond lies flush with the surface and is as stylish as it is practical for everyday use. With a rail setting I clamp several stones between two metal strips so that they are perfectly aligned. The advantage is that there is then no metal visible between the stones. This is done with square or rectangular stones such as baguette, emerald, princess or square cut stones. And with an incustration setting I put the diamond deep into the metal, almost like the smooth rubbed setting, but in this case the material is cut away around the stone possibly with decorative greines and usually in a decorative pattern.
Why I do everything myself, the art of diamond setting
Designing a piece of jewelry is one thing. But setting diamonds requires a different kind of craftsmanship. I find it important not to outsource that step. Because I set the stones myself, I have complete control over the end result: in appearance, wearing comfort and durability. Every piece of jewelry that leaves my studio is crafted by me from start to finish, with love for the craft and attention to detail.
